Drawing to a close.

Well, this is a strange moment for me. Blogging? Well yes i am.

I can't remember the last time i wrote. I think that it was in Amsterdam and i skimmed over most details. I can't actually believe that our trip is drawing to a close. It's the 19th here in Rome which means that there is only two nights left before our flight. Two! I couldn't even percieve leaving Europe 72 days ago as we were boarding our plane. As disappointed as i am to leave, i really am looking forward to summer. I can't wait for days lounging at the beach or swimming or eating and I definately won't miss the exchange rate.

I'll continue the story at Amsterdam. Dirty, greasy Amsterdam. I actually really enjoyed Amsty. Despite our terrible terrible Hostel, we managed to see some really interesting (and non red-light) parts of the city. It's picturesque canals can't quite rival those seen at Venice, but they certainly have their own charm. The city itself is beautiful and buzzing but i couldn't shake the feeling that my valuables were at constant risk from straying hands. It didn't help that we were hounded by shadey dealers asking if we were interested in "Charlie". "Hey you, Americans" they'd whisper "Interested..? Keen for any Charlie?"

Despite the shadey dealers, we had a really enjoyable time. Just like at the rest of the major cities, we took the NewEurope free tour which was always excellent. Although we don't remember every piece of information from every tour, they gave us a great overview of the city, where to find the best sites and the best time to visit them.
We had 3 hours of history and walking in Amsty, the only problem being the intense cold. I can't really describe to you how cold we would get (and even colder later in Berlin). As we walked out the hostel door, we could almost kid ourselves into thinking that it wouldn't be so bad today. But only 15minutes later we'd feel the creeping cold infect our toes, then hands, then nose, lips and then entire face and legs. Our stiff bodies would soon shutdown and it was hard to concentrate. But just when we would consider giving up, we'd enter a warm café or restaurant for lunch and we'd sigh with relief as the heat washed over us like we'd just slid into a warm bath. We are men though and so despite the sub zero temperatures we were out everyday exploring the different cities. The free tour in Amsty took us around all the major sights and phalic statues. It is quite hard to remember now, but we heard about stolen bicycles which fill the bottom of canals and other pieces of trivia. We walked passed the major museums and buildings of note and heard about the clever tactics used by Dutch businessmen and the Church (apparently they are quite good at getting passed laws which could be bad for business - after alcohol was banned in the live sex shows, for example, they began charging more for some tickets which offered "free" alcohol!).
In Amsty, obviously feeling very keen, we went on another tour which explored the red-light district. It really was fascinating to learn why these women spent 8 hours behind red glass every day. We had an entertaining tour guide which made it even more entertaining and we finished with a greater insight into Amsterdams not so shadey red-light area.

What really frustrated me about Amsterdam was our terrible Hostel. The supposed YOUTH hostel was occupied mainly by old freaks. The oldest freakiest freaks that i have ever come across. They leered and glared at us constantly and smoked pot 24/7 to distract themselves from their unfulfilling lives. What was even worse was the snoring. It was easily the most disgusting noise i have ever heard. Nathan probably described it best when he said it sounded like Daffy Duck choking on his own mucus. I will never forget that (the sound of a one legged man scooping and scratching at the skin folds of his leg is also not easily forgotten.)

But anyway, i was happy to get moving and get to Berlin - fascinating, beautiful, modern and ridiculously cold Berlin. After our terrible hostel experience in Amsterdam, we decided to spend a Euro more a night and go to St Christophars - easily the best chain of hostels we discovered. Berlin was awesome. I was amazed to discover that it had only been reunified 19 years previously. The collapse of the Berlin wall in 1989 is just something i knew, but never really thought about, something that i never really could put into context. Either way, it was an amazing feeling looking at the remains of the wall and learning about the iron fist which caused pain for so many for so long.

Again, we went on a free tour which was a great way to learn about the city. All my modern history lessons came flooding back as we were guided through the city, stopping at the buildings and sites which Mrs Engel drilled into us into both year 11 and 12. The Reichstag, the bookburning memorial, Berlin wall, Checkpoint Charlie, Hitlers bunker etc etc. It makes such a difference seeing all the places where these events took place. And conversely, each site was so much more interesting as i had a greater understanding of it's significance. As i mentioned before, the cold in Berlin was dilapidating. Im not actually sure of the temperature, but i read in the paper that in the days before our arrival it got as cold as minus 20! As you can imagine, we rugged up... but it wasn't quite enough. We were colder than ever but we survived although our limbs were burning when we finally made it back into the warm!

But anyway, we had 4 days in Berlin (we stayed an extra night because there was just so much to see) and then caught a train to Munich. Like Berlin, Munich was fantastic. There was so much to do and see - mainly because it was the start and heart of the Nazi movement. We did the free tour as usual and got a general understanding of the city. Nathan and I were keen to see more of the places that we studied in Modern History, however, and so we took another tour which explored the sights relevant to the Third Reich. Our group was very small, only five people including nafnaf and I which meant that we got a really personal tour. Munich, thankfully, was much warmer than both Amsterdam and Berlin and although we were wearing the same amount of layers, we finally didn't feel like we were wasting away. That night we decided to discover the German beer culture with a beer tour. We started at the famous Hofbräuhaus (the beer hall where Hitler had many of his Nazi meetings and where he was almost assassinated) and went around Munich visiting others. It gets a little fuzzy after a while because we were served 1L beers. As you can imagine, the mugs were massive and their effect felt relatively quickly. We had a great time though and it was good to share it with some other travellers. We decided to stay clear from the Aussies for once and got to know the Brazilian crew.

The next day we rose bright and early to do a tour of Dachau, the first concentration camp of Nazi Germany. It probably wasn't the best idea after a big night out, but we sobered up very quickly. It was both disturbing and fascinating. Not the most fun thing to do but all three of us felt that it was neccessary. The experience was difficult. Seeing the conditions which so many people lived in was disturbing. It's hard to accurately describe the experience. We were all moved to say the least.

That afternoon we made our way to Vienna. Our modern and clean hostel was definately welcome (FIFA 07 was even more welcome!) but we were probably even more excited by the fresh snow which blanketed the world. We charged through the powder not caring about the stares that we got (we are so used to them by now).
Vienna was absolutely beautiful (can you see a trend emerging) and we were in awe of the amazing buildings seemingly around every corner. We were very disappointed to discover that there was no free tours and we definately noticed their absense. It is really hard to get the most out of a city without some sort of guide and it is too easy to let the buildings blur into each other without the stories that differentiate them. The only tour options were well out of our price range and so we resorted to pulling out the Europe travel guides. Although we saw a lot of the city, a mixture of travel fatigue and a lack of direction was lethal and we soon began to lose momentum. We cut our losses and headed for Venice. We thought that, like the rest of Europe, Vienna would have trains leaving for the other major Euro cities constantly... but we found it more dificult than normal securing a train to Venice. We arrived at the train station at around 11am only to discover that we'd only just missed the last train and the next wouldn't arrive until 730pm. What was worse was that it was a night train and we wouldn't arrive to Venice until 3am. Oh, we are good.

So, we took what we could get. We let our hotel know that we would be late and waited for our train to leave. Despite not finding the departing station in Vienna (they did not make it easy) we made it to Venice pretty easily. The train trip was expectedly uncomforatable and i managed to get a few hours sleep (despite the people in our cabin who talked ridiculously loudly for about 4 hours straight and nathan who kept the light on until 230). But we made it. But, we discovered that we weren't actually in Venice. We were one station short of the Venice mainstation which was the station we needed to get a boat from to get to our hostel. Now, as you can imagine, there arn't many trains running at 345am (our train was late). There was none actually. The few bums who were around definately couldn't speak english but after a few minutes we discovered that there was a bus. The bus driver also couldnt speak english but we eventually made it to the station. An hour boat ride later, we made it to Lido, the island on which our hotel/hostel was located. At that point we realised that the directions to the hostel didn't make sense. Long story short, we made it. It was almost 6am. Yay.
haha.

Anyway, Venice was... Venice. Canals. Water. Boats. Expensiveness. You get the idea. It was incredibly foggy on the first day and surprisingly cold, but perfectly clear on the second. Venice was beautiful, but so touristy that i felt it was a little cheapened. People sold gimmicky masks everywhere. And everything was also really really expensive.

A few days later we made it to Rome - surprisingly with no hiccups. So here I am, at Happy Days hostel. I love Rome. It has so much character and there is so much to see. Yesterday we did all the usuals... the Vatican (we saw the pope without even trying!), Pantheon, Fontana di Trevi, Piazza del Popolo etc. etc. Today the Colossium. Everything was as you would expect. Grand. Beautiful. Massive!

Unless you couldn't tell i am really ready to have a break and so i will leave my last blog at that. It was an amazing experience but i'm looking forward to talking to you all properly.
See you all in only 3 days!
Love, Niiiiiiick.

Catholic Mecca: The Greatest Things Coming to an End

Fast rewind back to the last blog. Before Rome, before Venice, to Vienna. The slow, agonising hours that had an inherent and unnatural stamina which prevented their swift passing until we boarded the train to Venice, the pastel swathed canal strewn city that was our second last port of call. Our mistakes neccessitated the catching of a 1920 train which arrived in Venice at the unholy hour of 0300. We scraped throught the rest of the day, buying some food for the train ride, playing guitar (in my case) and napping. With about half an hour to spare before our train left, we stirred casually and meandered to what we assumed was the enigmatic 'south station' that was very impractically cut off from the underground network of Vienna. when we got to the station we had assumed to be the right one, we were a little anxious. Myself probably the most of us all. We were moving in our hulf run that typified travelling with 20kg packs when we were late for appointments, through a maze of half lit concrete corridors and tracks, none of which bore any familiarity to the station we wanted. I'm used to wondering if we'd arrived at the last time that we're going to get lucky, and apparently it wasn't that night! A (very!) helpful local with an unforgettable belly laugh gave us directions via the overground network which we winged (that is, did not pay for. surprise surprise!) and we made it to the station needed with about ten minutes to spare. Loads of time!



We have really come to fear travelling on trains in some ways, particularly when we don't have a reservation. This is because in most cases, after we're all comfortable and settled in nicely, we get some random creep come and usurp our seats from under us, leaving us standing or split up. It's a very invasive and uncomfortable process! Although we had (costly!) reservations for this train, it could have turned out sour when we got into our train compartment, to find a (presumably stoned) derelict on one of the seats, who then asked is this yours? I immediately reverted to my 'oh no its ok' response, because mathematically there was still an extra two seats in the cabin, but nick, in his infinite wisdom interjected with fervour, stating that yes, this was our seat, and added a slightly apologetic and probably pointless tone to the sentence just for measure. As it were, we enjoyed a creep free trip that waned long into the night. What was described by our hostel as a 30m boat ride to the island on which we were staying totaled about an hour, resulting in us reaching our hostel at about 0530, when all said and done. Now don't you all get too jealous!



We awoke, basking in the (wait for it...) morning sun that was streaming through our windows. This comparative oasis which had eluded us throughout europe with few exceptions was completely welcome, and we got to our feet for a well earned breakfast. This was the straw to break my back, the moment when I decided against my better judgement to get a pizza, purely on the merit of their volume to cost ratio. Little did I know that it would doom the pizza for the rest of my trip, and who knows how much more? I am completely sick of pizza. The thought if it makes bile threaten. And we had only just arrived in Italy.



It took about an hour for a thick, chilled mist to sink down to the street level of our island haven, dispelling the mood ressurected by the sun's radiance. We took a very eerie but awesome boat ride to the mainland and set about on foot, taken aback by the fully fledged mask industry that was geared for tourists with more means than us. We came to find that it was not just the masks that were out of our price ranges by a long way, but everything else. For instance, when trick asked for directions to a cheap restaurant the 'customer oriented' assistance booth employees gave a curt and breathy 'no', without saying another word. So plain baguettes it was. again. But nick and I showed our instinct for resourcefulness and bought some yoghurt. Damn good yoghurt.

The following day was first shadowed then brightened by the loss and finding of my ipod. We took a slow sunny boat ride to get to the main station, and then to Rome, which was very easily organised.

The next day, in our fantastic hostel, we enjoyed the kitchen with some cooking of our own (from which I am recovering pleasantly) and then hit Rome. Hard. We saw the better part of it during our 4 hours plus walk around the city, even seeing the pope.

So now, we wind up. I had to write the last two mini paragraphs again because the internet screwed up, so I might end it there a bit disheartened. But get ready readers! Our triumphant return is soon! Many houses are about to get louder and definately better.

Ciao!

The Great Anchluss: In Transit to Venice

Hello dear readers!

I suprise myself yet again by producing yet another blog in such an uncharacteristically short amount of time! We are currently presiding in an internet cafe in Vienna, still a little numbed by the recent setback we've had. Again, our organisational ineptitude has become an encumberance! We sauntered up to the main train station today, unheeded by the forewarning we had (by missing our alarms and therefore a tasty breakfast) and expectant of catching an hourly train to Venice. But (who could have known?) the last train left about 40 minutes before we arrived, and the next leave at either 1930 or 2030, arriving at 0300 and 0800 the following day, respectively. But we refuse all pity! This has been the unmistakable and unforgettable flavour of our own, tailor made eurotrip. We are well, with food in our bellies and hope in our hearts.

So back to Berlin. Where I left you. Clinging to a precipice of suspense, racked with fear that you might not get another chance to hear my voice and that we, the troisbros may drift into nondescript oblivion. Well, let me assuage your fears. The last time I blogged we had freshly danced upon the remains of the fallen wall in Berlin with happiness that only a knowledge of undeserved freedom could bring. The year we were all born was the year hope came to Germany! How rad is that!

We left Berlin shortly after, headed for Munchen. We stayed at this place tucked away (not very conspicuously) near the traino which turned out to be very, very convenient. I cant describe the feelings I had towards breakfasts over here. The free ones are always soooo early, but the pain of missing it is beyond description. So we hauled ourselves groggily (and in some cases clumsily) out of bed to fill up on the fantastic food provided.

We took many, many tours that proved to be incredible! And sadly there are no more free tours for all the places that we're headed to now, with seven days left. Sadder for us than you I'm sure! The first day we walked about and got a general overview of the city, the next trick and I took a paid tour which went into depth over the history of the thir reich, which was fascinating to say the least. That day we went on an epic beer tour, which began and ended very early. The day after we went to Dachau, which I am not particularly in the mood to describe. It was so moving I'm not even sure how I can keep typing even taking nothing more than a glancing hit by the truth, the reality of the terror that occured and still occurs in some places.

Anyway, now we're in Vienna, which has been dominated by cold and guitar for me, but lots of fun. I feel sick because you're allowed to smoke in the room here so I might stop there.

Much love people! See you all (too?) soon!

More of the Same: catching up to the present

ATTENTION READERS
DO NOT READ THIS BLOG FIRST
READ MY PREVIOUS ENTRY BEFORE YOU READ THIS ONE

you wont regret it...

Well well well hello my beleaguered readers. where was i? there was christmas and then Pari. ok that means new years is coming up! good times ahead. I am still currently in germany in case my massive recount has distorted your sense of time and space, as it has mine. Good news is, nick just brought my ipod so i might be able to get some photos for the previous blog. Even better news, i actually have photos for this blog which i am going to upload now.

Before we get to the time when the photos were taken, i have to explain the hilarious circumstances of our (forestalled) meeting with tim. so nick and i, not the most organised but demonstrably not the least, arrived in Pari again and manouvered through the arcane but addictive subway sytem with its distinctive doorhandles and ascended through the dense reek of Parisian gutters to arrive at our hostel, with the eiffel tower in clear view outside. lets take a moment to consider this surreality. we were staying, new years 08/09, less than four blocks from the eiffel tower. Incredible to think! how limitless our possibilities are.

So nick and i, drinking our cheap beers at a Parisian pub and utterly engrossed in yet another deep and meaningful, get a message from tim. little timmy. the poor waif of europe. What has he done today? i wonder, as i look on, nicks face splitting into an unpreventable grin. This is when i learn that he has not only got on the wrong train, but that he has found himself in Frankfurt, germany. So we slept, awaiting the (now possible) arrival of our friend.

We walk out of the door the following morning and straight into tim, who we laugh with and help him unpack. By the power of night trains he had finally made it to us, with all the odds on his side. We set about readying ourselves for new years, beginning with meeting nat again. third time for me! shes definately a eurostalker.



This is the fruits of our trip to versailles, where pieces of modern history continued to fall. this is where the seeds of bitter malcontent were sown that blossomed under hitler's hand, and is thus a very important place to see. unfortunately, the lines were ridiculously long so we didnt even bother lining up to get to the hall of mirrors. sigh, another 'next time' moment.



These are the gardens of the palace, which look even MORE beautiful in summer, so I'm told. it was very serene and helped curb the dissappointment of missing the halls.



One day we did take a hit as a team and endure an agonising hour and a half to get to the catacombs, which was in many ways worth it. For those that dont know, i have a notorious habit for needing to go to any bathroom, anywhere, with virtually no warning from my body. As fate would invariably have it, the moment we walk into the catacombs after what felt like the longest wait, I read that there are no toilets underground. ok, not so good. Tour time estimated: 40m. getting less good by big steps. Then, the urge hits as soon as i reach the last step in the crypt. At this point, i am utterly screwed. At times i had to fall back, doubled over from the concentration it took not to lose all bodily control. On the upside, it made the experience all the more memorable. maybe it will do the same for you.


This is the skull of a Parisian who probably died in the plague that swept through europe at the time, necessitating the hasty mass burial of thousands and thousands of people. It was pretty eerie down there, especially in the half light.

The roofs of the catacombs, stretching into the darkness, who knows what malignant spectres await at the end?



Walking towards nat's 90 euro a night hotel room. booking late means you pay through the nose at a time like new years in a city like Pari. its lucky we had a shred of organisation up our sleeve!


The gallaries lafayette. Looking spectacular as per usual at night



So new years had come at last. we had spent the last couple of nights leading up to it partying around paris with nat, but we were mobilised on this particular night. we headed en masse with thousands of people to the mesmerisingly well lit champs de elysee only to attract a throng of australians with the flags we draped on our shoulders. we cheered, drank, danced and laughed the night away, and drifted to sleep early in the morning.


it always snows the day we're leaving a place! Germany is still covered in snow right now because it comes down sneakily in the night. this is us running to the train station. We had tried to book a route to bruge, as our accomodation was already organised there, but had no success, so our final plan upon which we slept was to bank on the strength of our eurail passes and board the TGV that was headed to our destination, pleading faux ignorance to the inevitable ticket inspectors. we thought it couldnt hurt to check that TGV on the morning of our departure and realised with a stab of fear that it left not in a hour and a half but thirty minutes. This is why we ran to the station through the freezing cold morning!

This is us boys on one of many of the regional trains we had to connect to get to Bruge. in short, the attendant we had had the previous evening at the train station was an incompetent wreck and we were completely in the hands of what must have been a goddess by the name of delphine, the youngest and as far as we were concerned most talented rail advisor employed by SNCF. she connected a long list of regional trains together to ensure us a ride to Bruge, which we had only hoped to make it to just a day before. I fear that none of us will forget her.


Bruge. our heavy packs lightened by our airy moods, we walked around this picturesque city at night in search of our hostel, enraptured by its charming stone buildings resting against the banks of still canals.


My tangible excitement at the prospect of a night of beer pong. involving significant amounts of beer and a healthy side of pong.


The view of an amazing church tower that i forgot to flip. All the monuments like this are lit by night, showing off their splendour to all who could see.


I really like this picture. It captures some of the really classy angles of Bruge, clean and pretty.



This strategically placed rug has become something of an in joke amongst us bros that you may come to know...one day.


A beautiful morning after shot of Bruge, mist suspended gently between the crests of rooftops in the chilled morning air. A church in the background, which become a familiar landmark to us weary travellers.


All the canals were froyen here, which made them real photoworthy.



another shot of the perfect canals.

A scene from the Bruge bike chase that ended in me getting ridiculously lost and going home hungry because i couldn't find anyone.



Our uber savvy hostel had a map of the world where travellers could pin themselves. a pretty nice feature, we thought, and were tempted to steal some pins from new zealand.



The smallest bottles of grog ever!



A giant santa made ENTIRELY of belgian chocolate, of which we sampled. makes my mouth water just thinking of it. awesome.



So after Bruge, we headed to amsterdam, with mixed feelings. Anticipation, hesitation, all mixed into one. no doubt, the derelict trains we had to board were signs of what was to come. This is a shot from the station of our hostel, which is on the left. it was a beautiful view from the outside, but it still makes me want to shower thinking of the inside.

see? told you. this is from our window. I didnt expect amsterdam to be so amazing as it was so frequently. and the weather was so lucky.


This is the same coffee shop (weed parlour) where brad pitt, george clooney and mat damon were shot for a scene in ocean's twelve, if any avid fans are out there. Of course the picture is pretty appealing too.

lifelike busts of the trois bros. in fact, from left to right and much publis speculation, there is timqi, naf naf and trick.



The side of anne frank's house which we saw in passing on our free tour. was awesome.



this is anne frank's diary, which i wasn't supposed to photograph this but i am just so mad ass. jones is my inspiration for all things in life. when i get back im going to tear up the streets of the gong like he does.


first glimpse of Berlin! this was much awaited after our time in amsterdam. It was getting a bit sickly with pot smoke hanging think in the air at all times of the day. and our roomates were excessively seedy.


The light bearing down upon us from through the roof.


The jewish memorial site. really really moving. when we went into the building today it took a huge piece of my soul with it. terrible.


The memorial for the burning of the books in the square outside what was once the library of Berlin. there's empty shelves under the ground.


And those were the best days of our lives.

The reichstag from corner on the north east. pretty hip eh?

The brandenburg gate, on the old border of east Berlin.

These photos are now officially up to date. the last couple of days in Berlin we have been holed up in the hostel bar or braving the chill outside, in that order. I love it here.

Well my freinds thats it! im not going to tell you how long its been since i sat down today, but there is a distinct impression in the chair and i am almost totally accustomed to the keyboard if that gives you any idea.

much much love! talk again soon!

Hypothermia: slowed down by the Berlin chill

Well well well it seems that due to the unprecedented cold of this town called Berlin that i have been slowed down enough to write another blog! it helps having passed the point where people expect you to write one if they express their frustration but i actually wanted to write one, and since it takes so much effort, it may be my last! But it has been incredible, and i am still undergoing the emotional catharsis that comes from dancing on the ground where the wall once stood, severing the city no more as from 1989, the year of my birth. Its difficult to express the depth of my appreciation for freedom that i feel now.

Last time i contacted you, dear reader, was the first days in which we stayed in bordeaux. our hotel was pretty dingy and we had to shower with a hand held apparatus in what was surely an old wheat silo. but its 'manly' (a necessary euphemism) stench became the scent of home and comfort especially for tim and i who had to share a queen. suffice it to say i slept on the floor the last couple of nights we were there. no further explanation is necessary. its best to move on. stop thinking about the dynamics and keep reading. Just do it.

We have become so symbiotic over our trip that there is little we havent shared over the course of our trip, including deep and meaningfuls, our toothpaste, mulah, and sometimes mayonaise. Its clear how much guy love there is over here. Its hard not to be reflective as we edge, no, stride, towards the inevitable but strangely welcome conclusion to our epic land faring saga. I think we're all very learned after an abundance of (often free) tours and general travel. i certainly feel like im beginning to forge for myself a life and existence that i want for myself, and im going to make sure that act doesnt end when i step off the last plane home.

Bordeaux. what a beautiful city! its been so long now that the photos up to Pari round two have had to be dumped onto my ipod! which, of course, means a ridiculously long and overly verbose entry ahead. so for the fair reader who has better use of their (virtual) existance then by all means, let my rant deter you and continue to delve through your facebook notifications but for those that want to enjoy what is going to be the next (potentially and likely) two hours of my life in type then come with. Its been unforgettable.

So bordeaux is where its at. retrospectively. We survived more often then not off baguettes filled (literally) with fresh supermarket meat and the finest slice cheese which i have come to love and are one of the few meal options that thinking of doesnt make me sick, unlike:

greasy chips heaped with mayonnaise
endless meat saturated kebabi
month old mcdonalds meals
italian, mainly pizza

this is probably due to our (true to our bachelor instincts and abilities) lace of creativity. but we have survived, and the only one who has been a little sick is nick, and a lot of sleep later he is fine and dandy, lumbering around with the difficult task of coordinating his limbs.

I cant remember verbatim any time where there is no photos, so bordeaux is a little patchy. We went to the tallest sand dune in europe one day, and as you will no doubt see later (and again and again) we performed the ultimate bonding act of running, leaping, tumbling down this collossal natural monument in nought but our jocks. no regrets whatsoever. That day we walked around the misty grey of the bordeax coast, along piers logged by light rain and through whitewashed streets with our heads buried in our scarfs and hands stuffed into our pockets. we have been incredibly fortunate with a lot of our travel organisation as you would be undoubtedly aware so the buses were practically waiting for us at the dune de pilat. Many bordeaux nights were characterised by (multiple) two euro bottles of red and cheering through the streets since its legal to bear alchohol in public. the joys of europe, sure to be exploited.

One day tim and i left to st emilion, which i have posted photos for in my last entry. This was a train trip away and a beautiful stone crafted township cradled by sprawline winefields guarded by chateaus as far as my eye could make out. The place was overlooked by a church bell tower, likely to have been there for centuries at least. We were shown around a private establishment by the son of the owner who looked like lumiere's spitting image in flesh, with the greatest debonair smile i have encountered, the one that exudes distinction but tacitly. he showed us the wine making process from the ground up, to the pressing rooms and his family's cellar, where french had hidden during the revolution in the end of the eighteenth century. I would love to develop my fledgling wine tasting abilities given the time and financing, but ill probably have to leave it for later.

During our stay in Bordeaux we paid for about 1% of the tram rides we caught, which was always stressful for me but has become a norm of public transport until this day. I can also remember going out one night which tim has mentioned to some clubs in bordeaux, followed by the most impromptu and therefore the most enjoyable night in Bordeaux, where we struck a conversation with an australian loving student who invited us (generously) to his friends house to keep the night alive. It was the turning point for me. I could never again claim that the french hold unreservedly, complete disdain for us lowly english speaking travellers. and since that night every french person i have met (who is not working for the rail service, and is not delphine; ill explain later) have been heartwarmingly generous and have made my stay over here so much more memorable.

Through our trademark lack of organisation tim and i (how could i have expected any less?) ended up with no accomodation and no way of getting to Lyon, our next desination, on our last day in bordeaux. My frustration was barely containable, but i was completely shattered by the selflessness of nicks house parents, who housed (and fed!) us for the night, which is no small feat. I slept with gratitude for a stranger i had never met and will never forget, and it was a good sleep.

We left in formation the following morning for Lyon, which was to be an enjoyable stop off. I just remembered too that this was the 8 hour train trip that we had perpared no food for. we were so weak when we got off that we couldnt resist a massive binge on french pastry at the station, which i would prefer not to repeat. Again, a bed had to be shared during the two nights, and tim got his desire fulfilled when he got to share BOTH nights. Few have experienced such joy in their entire life. We walked around, scouring the second hand bookstores, wandering through christmas markets poised for the climactic days ahead, straddling canals and being complete cheapskates about it. Its still a bitter memory I have of being denied a ferris wheel ride by the other two. so cheap.

So lyon marked the end of our taste for complete reunion. Our ineptitude for organisation was counterbalanced perfectly by the comforting prescence of the main train station, which we hopped right onto on our way to strasbourg, where we were to part again. Tim left, all by himself, for stutty and nick and i headed for Dusseldorf, laughing from his German uncle Eckharts lightspeed phone answering skills.

At this point, i pulled my socks up. I knew that i was facing the immensely difficult task of cleaning up my act for the sake of my (indescribably) generous benefactors that had agreed to my staying with them over christmas, a rare time of year i could have ruined for them completely. travelling with two other boys seems to be a means to exponentially accentuate the rowdiest traits one has.

Eckhart and Diana (whom i love very much as if they were even my own family) took the liberty of picking us up from the station. Trick's wild cousin patrick and his even wilder sibling 'topher' were to be arriving the next day. Not a second was spared by the winterhoffs in making my stay one of my favourite parts of my trip and definately one of my favourite christmas times.

As the family came together from all over the world the board games crept out of their hiding places and entered the fray. These days were very joyous and hilarious times, characterised by games and frequent meals (the best ive had here. period), and not the least of all immersion in english media, from films to certain television series. In fact, a very addictive series. It was here, in the big d (as local editors like to call it, as tims travel book informs me), that i discovered gossip girl. the most blissfully self aware piece of trashy banality ever to be smeared across the screen today, but it has become my love. I have embraced the inner Mattie-O and Petie-B. I managed to pool together my (formidable) reserves of laziness and not write the blog i had promised myself i would in D, but enjoyed all the more every second i spent with my accepting surrogate family. I was either embraced as one of their own or the hapless protagonist of such an elaborate deception that made me feel embraced that i am indebted no matter which way you look at it.

Christmas came. the joyous, familial end to 2008 that was rolling ever closer. I had anticipated to be spending the day marinating in my self pity, being so divorced from my family with whom i have not had enough contact by far that my favourite plan was to spend the day rewatching a film that was due to be released. But, not only was it to be released much later in europe, but I was swept right into the fold of the winterhoff festivities before i could blink. What still makes me very emotional even as i write this is their sheer generosity. Nick had told me earlier that his mother, judy, or la mere as she goes by in this blog universe (dont let her pseudonym fool you!) had bought me a present. Me. A lowly freeloader leeching off whoever i could in europe, no to mention my habits for doing so back in wollongong. thought of even in a time as hectic as christmas. Then, the winterhoffs, who had housed me (I can never thank them enough, i have not the necessary abilities of self expression. which might be a good thing), had not filled, but FILLED a bag with all sorts of german liquer, chocolate, lollies, notebooks, matchbox cars just for me. little old me. with such profound happiness that only some have the privelidge to experience. Then, as i was about to recede into the shadows and experience the remainder of present opening in a sabotaged vicariousness, diana tells me thats not all. its not all? i wonder, taken aback. is she serious? patrick hands me his gift, a copy of flemmings 'live and let die'. even patrick, who was living off a student budget and whose christmas i had crashed had thought enough of me to get me a present. It was breathtaking. Then Diana handed me a crad, from nicks aunty valniere, whom i have never met, which had in it 25 euros. Enough said.

The next day i broke my streak and awoke early to go for an explore and a bit of a jog. I clambered through the undergrowth backing onto their home and wound around a partially frozen creek until i doubled back in time for nick to wake up. Eckhart was fully clothed and, as a testament to his character, he was looking too relieved to see me and had assumed that i broke my leg and was unconscious, undoubtedly struck down by the cold as i was scantily clad in my tee shirt and no socks. but the brazen australian spirit proved its worth and i rode upon a wave of well earned endorphins for the whole morning.

That day we went for a family walk (all family events came to include me) around the golf grounds and through the forestry. I broke off from the rest and meandered through the woods until i stumbled upon some bunkers left over from the second world war. At this moment i remembered how history was made on this continent and how close and fresh the memories were. It was very quieting. I became a bit more wary when the thought crossed my mind that (unlikely as it was) there could be landmines left there, so i treaded very very carefully back home.

Home! it keeps moving over here! I laughed so much those few days with topher and patrick, some really bad tasting jokes being the most staying. Diana and i struck a particular chord and i talked with her a lot! everyone who was trying to read at the time got frustrated with our constant discussion and relocated themselves much mroe than once. And i can say that even I, the english nerd who hasnt read a book out of school for years, have burned through a couple of books whilst over here! Including twilight, the first instalment. With Stephanie meyer's and gossip girl's combined effortst the inner teen girl has been stirred to life, hopefully to last.

The saga of my credit card ended there, with activation being very straightforward. I rang home to my familia to wish them all as merry a christmas as i have had and washed all my clothes. On the way to the cathedral in Colgne I also purchased some fresh new socks! my feet feel cleaner but my shoes, sadly, will never recover. they've seen far too much action and they are stained by memories and the abuse they've suffered. I posted my 5k stack of sin city books that i had bought along the way, making my bag a whole lot lighter.

So nick and I left the dorf early in the morning, having had a wonderful christmas, laughing over the last image i had of eckhart, or rather his arm, as he tossed into the train our bad of food for the trip. We are hopelessly forgetful, and I know this will make all mothers smile in knowing affection for our innocent shortsightedness. by the way, nothing's changed.

So nick and I arrived in Pari, christmas behind us, new years ahead, ready for round two. Pari for its first time in my experience would have been lacking if it weren't for the amazing set list of destinations simply because of the persistant rain that tended to flatten the mood. But lo and behold, followers, that we brought the good weather of Deustchland with us and had either sun or snow the whole time. It makes a big difference.

This blog is ridiculously long already, and i haven't even caught up to 2009! insane times.
Ok i just realised that at this point i have photos documenting my travels. Please read the next blog after, otherwise you'll ruin the chronology. talk soon.

It's time to begin,

let the sun shine back in.

Like my singing? I know phee does. Duet some time yea? Ok so this keyboard is basically the same as Aus but the y and the z key are swapped around. So I may get sick of backspaceing all the time and youll have to deal with there being more z's than a usual blog. Deal? ok deal.

So, where to begin. I think I left you holding your breath in Stuttgart, spelt with a t not a d i have come to realise. After Christmas I departed for Paris to meet up with the lankyer and the more emotional trois bros so we could once again continue on our epic journey. In true Timqth fasion this proved a lil more difficult than it should have been. Arriving at Stuttgart Hbf station 30mins ahead of time I was surprised to find my train already on it's platform. The sign said the train was going to Frankfurt, which mine also was, although i was meant to get off halfway and switch trains. Alas i hoped on board and was soon freaking out as i noticed the train started to leave about 15mins before it was meant to. I asked the ticket dude, who did not speak english and he just said it was going to Frankfurt. So one 2hour trip later I was not where i wanted to be and had missed my train to Paris. I asked a lady for the next train to the city of love and she sent me back to Stuttgart to catch a night train.

Was quite a bizzare feeling being only minutes from my cousins house at 2am and they having no idea about it. They still don't. So the night train was probably one of the most surreal moments of my life. I went into tiny room and there was already 5 other people in there alseep. I climbed a ladder to the third story bunk. Listened to my ipod, drifted in and out of sleep, for about 4 hours then got up, got my stuff and got off the train without ever seeing any of my room mates faces.

That awesome night aside, I made it to the hostel at about 10am and met up with Nick and Nathan in time for the free tour around Paris. The tour was interestingßfunny, as they all are, and we got our cultural fix. That night we met up with Natty and one of the funnest nights of the trip entailed. Bottles and cameras in hand we headed to Eiffel tower, becoming those loud, bloody tourists that everyone hates. After many hours of ridiculous footage and photos we headed back home and crawled into bed knowing we had to get up in a few hours to catch the early breakfast (which finished at 9, not 9:30 so we missed it anzways).

The next few days I'm not quite sure on which stuff happened where but we went to Versialles. I don't know how it's spelt. But it was snowing when we got there which was sah-weeeet but alas, the big palace thing that Nick and Royters were heaps keen on (and Nat and I were not opposed to) was packed. The line to get tickets was about an hour long and then you had to join a new line (also about an hour long) to get into the building. As much as Nick and Nathan were keen to see the inside, the prospect of standing in the snow for a few hours was not heaps attractive to anyone, so the exhibit\museum was left to our imaginations.

Day after was the catacombs. Which were basically wicked. Once again the line was quite long, but about halfway through Nick disapeared and re appeared with Cheeseburgers so we survived the wait. Once we got inside we were blown away and many, many pictures were taken. Millions of bones and skulls were underground all arranged in neat patterns and walls. I'll let Nick or Fanman fill you in because the details escape me. We also went and saw the Spirit. Which was awesome. Just putting it out there.

So that night, I think, was new years. Hoorah! New Years was quite the awesome time but was a lil dampened by the lack of countdown\fireworks and the freaks that tagged along with our group due to the exzuberant (yep you heard me) singing of the national anthem and the Aussie flags. Point is we hung with Nat for pre drinkys, met her friends from Aus at a resturant about 10 then headed to...crap, i forget what its called, the big special place...whatever, where ever we were it was packed and lotsa fun. We wondered round once 12 came and went, lost some people, picked up a few, lots nathan, didn't get him back, then me Nat and Trick escaped back to Nat's hotel room about 3:30am and slept in her quite small (especially when a giant, lanky, freak boy is involved) double bed. Not sure what happened to Nathan. Should probably ask him that.

Anyways the next day we met up again back at our hostel. Did stuff. And that night we tried to book our train to Bruges\brugge. Alas the stoopid old hag lady behind the counter (after checking for a few seconds) decided there was now way at all to get to Bruges the next day. This kinda ruined the euphoric mood that had been floating around since our reunion, and we decided we might just have to wing it and jump on a train and plead ignorance for not having a booking.


However, the next day we just thought we might check again. And Delphine, the goddess of beauty, typed away and found a way to Brugge which involved many train swaps but we got there that night (not knowing how to get to our hostel, SURPRISE!) and eventually found our cozy, lovable home for the next two nights.
We almost met Ky. This young man, an employee at the hostel, was animant (don't actually know how that word is spelt, lil embarrassing but I'm using it anyways because I am dareing) about playing beer pong. This turned out to be the greatest decision ever as the troisbros, some americans dudes, some american girls and a lone english guy ended up having the greatest championship ever which went long into the night, ending in an underground pub at about 3:30am.

We wondered back to the hostel, stayed up till about 5am then got up at 9am in order to spend the day bike riding around the beautiful city. I think maybe if there was more to do I'd be üretty keen to live there. But alas there is no beach. So maybe not. If i get rich and famous I can buy out one of the massive churches and live in the attic. And ring the bell. And call myself Quasimodo. It'd be fun.

Saying goodbye to the Alec and his American posse was a bit sad but we survived as we ventured towards the infamous citz of Amsterdam.

Our hostel, more or less, was exactly what you would expect from a 10euro a night hostel in the middle of the red light district.

The owners\workers were pretty cool but everyone of our room mates were absolute freaks, particularly the lanky one with the Edward Cullins obsession and this other one who was always playing his guitar. FREAKS. But seriously, there was these three middle aged guys, not connected to eachother, who appeared to be living there. I wish that was a joke.

Aside from them Amsertdam was prettz awesome. More free tours entailed and we enjoyed them to no end, altough this was probably the first time we really felt the cold. This lil trip emphasised my hatred for anything that relates to prostitution\porn\mankind. The fact that women would stoop that low and the fact that men would indulge that makes me want to curl in a ball and cry for everyone. But I was having to much fun to do that so we kept moving. The first night in Amsty was alright. Just the three of us chillin out, wnjoying eachothers company and manly scent.

Night after we went on a red light district tour which, I must say, was friggin funny as thanks to the jack sparrow wannabe (not in a bad way) tour guide. When the tour was over we went into a hostel\bar and the tour guide bought us all jager shots (one euro). Beers were two for one and the night seemed like it was gunna be fun. And to add to this, we saw two of Nats mates from New years. We wondered over to them, many hugs and backslaps later we assimilated into their queensland 'heaps sick ayyye' group and spent the next few hours hanging with them before getting kicked out, heading to maccers (keeping the tradition alive) and then heading home to the foul smelling, snoreing room mates we grew to despise.

Next day was the Anne Frank Museum, which was incredibly interesting and surprisingly moving. So much info into my brain, so many emotions, it was like watching gossip girl. lawwwwwwwwwl.

Anyways the one day and too many cheap kebabs later we ventured to the traino again and headed to Burlin without any hiccups. hoooooraaaay! We made to our hostel, which is from the same chain as the enjoyable one in Amsty =) and had dinner, a few beeries and headed to the imax to watch Twighlight. Alas it is not out in Germany yet so we settled for the Will Smith movie. Which was quite slow, but pretty awesome anways. Also it is snowing here. Like a lot. Well it was. So there is snow on the ground. Which made us very happy and we frolicked for quite a while last night.

Today we went on another free tour led by the tinyest irish girl ive ever seen. We also discovered what it means to be my mother when she's cold. It got to the point were it was actually too painful to be outside and we went inside a random coffee shop which turned out to make the best coffee ive had in yourope so far. So there you go. After the tour we ventured home and now i am here.

I don't think i missed out on too much. And the others are probably wondering where I am seeing as ive been gone for 119 minutes. Woo.

Ok well this is probs the 3rd last blog youll get from me. So i love you all and will see you in a few weeks.

Timqth.
xx