Thursday, December 25, 2008
It's Waffle (Christmas) time it's waffle (christmas) time wont you have some waffles (Christmas) of mine.
Friday, December 19, 2008
A tear for Bordo.
Intermission
Some of the buildings in Saint something or other. cant remember. near nice and the place that was built onto a mountain! very old school.
Some very, very alluring french sculpture that i found. i was compelled against my will to take this photo.
back in Marseilles, Timqth and I took photos of a massive checkerboard because we are arty
Beautiful views in Pari, no?
Some fantastic french art in the louvre. taking it back some
Me in the bay on the Marseilles day trip
The trois bros unite again. were so damn good lookin'
Wine cellars on a private tour in st emilion. most of these bottles cost over 10000 euro
view from the emilion bell tower. i tried to push tim off but he resisted me. hes much stronger now...
st emilion from approach
Bordeaux's waterfront at night. lovely!
A cathedral in Toulouse. pretty majestic hey
Me and tim. what we looked like for most of toulouse.
The graveyard we almost died from fear in
An awesome monument commemorating the wars in nice
ok peeps gotta go. talk soon, much love
Photos are for Winners.
This was a real art exzhibit. I just realised I dont know how to spell exhibit. I think thats it. Also I dont know how to do apostraphies on this crazy keyboard.
Tuesday, December 16, 2008
For The Mothers: Trois Bros At Full Power
the moment you've all been waiting for,
the occasion upon which our excitement soars,
because it couldn't wait even one ... moment ... more,
... (dramatic pause replete with baited breath)
NOT ONE, NOT TWO, AND CERTAINLY NOT SO MANY AS FOUR,
BUT THREE, THE THREE 'GRAND' GARCONS ARE AS ONE ONCE MORE!
That little snippet of theatricality was about half as awesome as the moment when tim and I, after asking the french locals if they've seen a spindly giant stalking the train station, first saw our long lost (and now well versed in french) counterpart, trick in the central station of Bordeaux. Let the good times roll on out.
Leaving you at Marsailles was harder for me then it was for you people, so let me dozn easy when more then 24 hours pass without a post. It's hard when you're always moving! And Timqth and I just crawled our way out of THE shite est hotel EVER. And not just because it was immediatley contrasted to our Uber hostel in Nice. So there was little access as will become abundantly clear later O insatiable readers.
This night we were convinced by Musah, who along with his travel pal Tom were from Amsterdam to go out to town seeing as it was a saturday. I lost some cred though because I couldn't resist the urge and indulge in the stereotypes, asking If Tom brought clogs with him just in case. I think an awkard laugh might have trickled out alongside my dopey chuckles.
But Tim and I did drag our sorry asses out, striving to make the most of our trip. And It was so wirth It.
We walked for a bit to get to a cafe bar reccommended to us by someone that I now forget which was quite busy, so we pushed on into the bar quarter. This was pretty hip and happening and there were people everywhere pouring out onto the street from the backs of the venues that all converged in street crosses. This was the sort of scene you have to look hard for in Oz.
So mopey old Tim who is NOT good at travelling was tre fatigued but, in desperation and upon hearing a few notes of live music escaping through an unauspicious doorway forced tim to follow me into the depths of a (free!) venue where a chaos funk metal band was playing. I would describe them as the distant child of half Air and Jethro Tull ethnicity and half protest the hero. They were so good, and their riffs still send us hopping down the street every now and then to this day.
Day 2 at Marsailles we spent NOT thinking about my card and walked around the ridiculously beautiful city. This was Marseilles' time to shine and it did just that. It really is a postcard city. with ochre alleyways draining into a sun soaked harbour full to the brim with white boats shoulder to shoulder, markets clinging to every street corner, the air humming with the voices of the crowd of people (some were french I hope!) and our lungs purged of the inner city haze by the cool breeze drifting off the sea.
And by the way I forgot my chord so no visuals today!
Then Timmy boy walked with me to the coast, stopping at a fortress perched lazily on a mountainside, stone walls slumping slightly against the grass edges. We got a solid view of the city from this vantage point and headed back down to the road so we could reach the waterfront.
my Oz spirit kicked inside me when we got to the first beach, which was enough of an experience to remind me of the beaches we were missing but also to remind us of how awesome our beaches really are back home. the people sunbaking were all but fully clothed! Bummer. We then continued our walk around the coast along a road carved into the side of a bleached stone mountain, eating the most succulent pommes I have ever had (pomme is french for apple, as judy would definately be proud to know already) and wind tossing through our rugged hair. We turned back and walked through the streets of the city at dusk, things getting cooler and quieter, everything embracing a slight tinge of blue. We saw some street art, jumped around and got directions to this restaurant by the sea near Marseille. I played some guitar for some of the hostel residents who were leaning out their windows and finished an old song i started in sweden.
In the night of day 2, Tim and I were peer pressured into some hard drugs.
lol. we really werent but I thought it might fool some readers out there. There was no one with hard drugs anywhere near our hostel.
We got the directions to this restaurant that can only be reached by foot from the hostel receptionist and headed out early in the Morning. we hopped a metro and a bus and got out at a uni in the outskirts of Marseilles. after a bushwalk through some french style scrub the moutainous landscape opened out into the most incredible coastal vista ever! Tim and I climbed this peak that overlooked the coast and it looked like we could see the world beneath our feet. We trekked down the hill and down to the tiny pier where the restaurant (closed for the winter) was.
Afterwards, tim and I hauled ourselves back to the bus station and and literally collapsed on our beds. That was Marseilles done and it was very worthzhile.
The follwing morning I tried to get my card back but it turns out banks arent really concerned with their customers and I was pretty much told to get lost by this teller at the french bank connected to the ATM. good news is, my new card is en route to Europe. so all is well!
Tim and I travelled with Musah and his bud and trained it to Nice, finding that it was quite soggy in comparison to Marseilles. We caught the tram to a stop near a supermarket where I rapidly bought the components for some sandwhiches while the hostel bus waited outside and behind it insane french motorists punched their horns in a frenzied rage.
I took a stroll around Nice and then we decided to spend one of many nights in because of the awesome poeple we met, the cheap beers (1 Euro each) and the incredibly addictive brownies.
The next day we walked through Nice old town to the modern art museum (ps dont go there it epitomises modern arts inadequacy), the clustered street markets and patisseries, And we even checked out a chocolate shop and bought some dark chocolate lolly pops. wow.
The coast of Nice was unremarkable in the heavy rain but still worth seeing.
The next day we took some advice and took the bus to the mountainous areas north west of nice to Saint Paul, which is this medieval castle town teetering on the edge of a cliff enveloped by thick fog. Breathtakingly beautiful, breathtakingly cold. We went with a Canadian Matt and bought beers, having d and ms and laughing a lot, mostly at the expense of his country's southern neighbors. There is some really fantastic art stores in this town and I owe you some photos for later.
We took it easy that night and only carved through like four or five bottles of wine between three of us (4 euros a bottle, you tell me) and slept heavily, though not as heavy as our ridiculously loud roommate who I thought sounded like (at different times):
A tanker running into an iceberg, repeatedly
A walrus choking on a brick
A man jackhammering an oil drum
A catastrophic eruption
Someone revving a harley davidson from like the 70s
that next day I left my latest graphic novel at the room, which meant we missed our train that was delayed by the train driver strike anyway. I made sure tim knew that, since hes the best person i know at concealing all his emotions with some latent autistic abilities or something. We ended up taking this fantastic walk around the Nice coast and up a lookout which was well worth it since that was the first sunny day we'd seen.
Then, we travelled to Toulouse. This turned out to be a terrible, terrible, mistake. We got off the train at about 2300 and it was raining a little, which was ok. It started getting not ok when we began our walk which was to be repeated countless times to our hotel in the middle of fricking nowhere with nothing but empty cars and industrial warehouses for company along the half lit roads. I'm suprised we survived, honestly. We did not see a single person in the hotel the whole time we stayed there, except for the last day where we me the mad eyed owner. take the comments seriously if they say the halls are creepy. cause they were.
The next day we walked through the city, finding some markets and PEOPLE which was so refreshing. we walked around the old town, ate and talked and then saw a movie. When we got home, I felt like we needed to do something and since the metro closed at like 2400 and there was no way in hell we were walking all the way home after going out I suggested we check out the old train station.
This was the beginning of a horrible and terrifying night. After the station, we walked through a graveyard, with light only in the distance, in pitch black and rain, and were scared out of our minds. We waked past empty derelict houses, massive hulking storehouses for companies, and murky grass plains until we got to the bridge over the dark un,oving river. A single ferry slid accross its surface, light from the pit of hell blinding our eyes to the sight of the undead steering it forward. We stumbled past a crack den into a the middle of a tent villiage with voices and smoke, so tim and I just ran for our wretched lives then. We fell through the door, into our beds, comforted not by the cigarette qnd sex stained hotel room we came to call home.
The next day crepes were breakfast (yay!) and Timqth left for the markets, 'bored of buildings' and I walked around the cold city, finding somre redeeming architecture and tranquil gardens to change my opinion slightly. That night was the last, where we watched another film and walked all the way home.
That day we didnt even bother to check the times for the train and got lucky at the station as it was leaving in like an hour. So we had a 'royale with cheese' and beer at the big D for all those Quentin T fans out there. there might be a few.
And that was yesterday! I'm about to meet up with Tim and nick again and I'm late so I have to go. thats how committed I am to you all!
Anyway, lots of hug
and stuff
nathan
Tuesday, December 9, 2008
Germany in a weekend.
But here i am.
Well i am back in Bordeaux after an entertaining weekend with jen in Frankdaddy - aka Frankfurt, Germany. It was a damn long trip, but definately worth it.
Although i had to spend almost 7 hours on the train, it was a pretty smooth and quick trip. I left on Thursday afternoon at 1pm (I was soooo close to missing the train - only directions from a few strangers kept the dream alive) and arrived bored and excited at 9pm. The train was comfortable and i was lucky enough to sit next to some really interesting people. We exchanged emails and names and talked for the next 3 hours about just about every topic. Meeting these people really is one of the best parts about travelling solo, it not only easier but is essential to stop going crazy.
So anyway, after some confusion about whether we had to change trains or not, i finally made it to Frankdaddy (carrying about 20 bags for this girl who it looked like had taken half of her house to Germany with her) and had a nice running, slow-mo hug with Jen - not really, she actually gave me a fright as she stepped from behind some sign. I'd messaged ahead telling Jen the train was running late because the driver "was retarded" and she thought that the driver actually was retarded because the arrivals sign said "10 minutes de retard" (10 minutes late in French). hah.
It was funny at the time.
The reunion... aww.
So anyway, we were both buggered and so we just chilled back at her house after jumping and throwing around snow like we were young again (sigh).
The next day (after a well deserved sleep in) we ate some chocolate cereal (i'm not joking when i say chocolate cereal - there was litereally chucks of real chocolate! Chunks! - no wonder my teeth hurt!) and we left to go for a little ice skating. At this point i could actually see some of Frankdaddy and it seemed to be this strange mixture of old and new. One street would be very modern, the next a bit cold and industrial like, and then the next awesome traditional old-school German. It was a little confusing. But it still was beautiful and the scattered snow (which was already melting) gave everything a christmas-y feel.
We eventually made it to the ice skating rink and got in for free because Jens host dad Mathias (sp?) ran in a marathon. It was as you would expect. Ice. Skates. Jen really really shit. haha. Jen did eventually improve. I think by the end she could do 3 glides before almost falling. I did get in trouble from some crazy German man after i tried to take one of these learn-to-skate penguins that help keep you stable but apparently his daughter hadn't finished with it and so he started yelling at me. At which point i tried to apologize but ended up saying "danke" - thankyou - oops. I just skated away quickly.
Snow! I love Europe!
After skating and throwing snow, we headed back to the centre of Frankdaddy and had dinner at this awesome Italien restaurant. My mouth is literally watering now just thinking about it. Jen and I, both deciding to be completely unoriginal, went for the Penne Bolognaise. What was so good about this place, however, was that you actually order from the chefs and then they make it fresh, on the spot!! It was awesome! We both ordered and began a conversation with the chef, Grace. She was hilarious and like everyone in Frankfurt could speak excellent English. Ten minutes later after our food was cooked (right in front of us!) and we walked back to our table which had a tree in the middle and was sorrounded by olive oil, bread and fresh basil that you actually picked from the plant to put on your food. It was a nice place - and even better, it was really cheap.
Our entertaining chef Grace.
Looking at that food is seriously making me hungry.
Gotta love the fresh herbs and the tree in the middle of the table
The next day we went into Frankfurt again to the Marches de Noël (i don't know what they are called in German) - Frankfurts famous Christmas markets - and met up with one of Jens friends, Alison. People from all over Europe come to see the Frankdaddy markets apparently - and it definately felt like that. The markets were packed with people. Literally tens of thousands of people browsed the shops selling just about everything. After a while we joined the ques for traditional German sausages, potato cakes (which were delicious after one bite, but waaaay too greasy after two) and German sweeets. We also just haaaad to go on this two storey merry-go-round which was actually surprisingly fun. Jen, Alison and I were sitting on this spinning seat that i kept turning so it would go faster - much to Jen and Alisons chagrin! We were laughing so much that we didn't realise that the turn had stopped and were supposed to get off - we just kept spinning our little seat thing laughing and wondering why our turn was so long.
The markets were at least 20billion times bigger than the ones in Bordeaux - but it was interesting because they were similar but different. They had a more exciting, busy feel and had live music and heeeaaaps of hot wine.
It's market time - frankdaddy style.
I'm surprised we didn't see Tim and Nath here because the rest of Europe was.
The awesome fun merry-go-round.
The ride had probably stopped at this point - but we just kept spinning.
Jen and her one true love.
The next day we got up super early (7.30) to go to a village near Frankfurt called Rothenburg. We had a three hour train ride, but our companions Alison and Ruth were so entertaining that the trip went by in no time. Ruth was seriously hilarious - Jen and I were on the floor laughing after every second sentence. She was British and so swore all the time in the funniest ways - definately a "you had to be there" moment.
The Rothenburg crew - Ruth is on the far right and Alison is next to her.
Anyway, the village. It's famous because it is one of the few towns in Germany to be almost completely untouched by WWII. Apparently, it was almost destroyed at one point decades before, but legend has it that a deal was made between the city council and the attackers. The village would not be destroyed if one of the council men could drink a 3 litre tankard of beer in one go. They agreed and it is said that the man needed 3 days to recover. Now that's my type of legend!!
A moat or something.
Rothenburg in all its German glory.
The streets of gingerbread houses.
The village itself was beautiful! It still has its defensive walls intact and has been almost perfectly preserved. All our travel books warned us about massive crowds, but because of the time of year, it was only busy, not overly crowded. The village offered amazing views of the sorrounding countryside and had another Christmas market - although it was really small. We did all the touristy stuff - took our photos, climbed the wall, ate more food... the usual stuff.
A nice view.
We were, however, amazed by these little sugary buscuit balls which were sold everywhere... but they ended up being just a little disappointing. They needed a lot more sugar. They kept us entertained for a while though.
The magical sugar, dough, biscuit balls.
It was a long day (we got back to Frankdaddy juuuust in time for the last train to Jens at 930pm).
I love the crazy narrow lanes of Yourope.
Ahh, the end of a long day.
It was such a good weekend. So good to mix things up a bit and see where jen has been for the last 10 months. So now, it's back to reality (i love the 'reality' for me is Bordeaux at the moment!). I had a pretty uneventful trip home except that i sat next to some crazy guy wearing a skirt who smelt like old meat. Mmmm.
The always difficult goodbye.
The foggyness reflected our dampened mood. aw.
Anyway, i know that i have forgotten heaps, but thats what happens.
Miss you guys.